{"id":450,"date":"2020-02-10T11:54:15","date_gmt":"2020-02-10T11:54:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/towncryyers.com\/?p=450"},"modified":"2020-02-10T11:54:20","modified_gmt":"2020-02-10T11:54:20","slug":"the-sparkling-rise-of-the-lab-grown-diamond","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/towncryyers.com\/index.php\/2020\/02\/10\/the-sparkling-rise-of-the-lab-grown-diamond\/","title":{"rendered":"The Sparkling Rise Of The Lab Grown Diamond"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Harriet Constable<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Young people are falling out of love with mined\ndiamonds because of their high environmental and humanitarian costs. How do\ntheir alternative, lab-made diamonds, measure up?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On a grey January morning in 2019 Meghan Markle\nemerged onto a London street on her way to a meeting. She wore a smart coat and\nheels, but it was not her clothing that caught the attention of the world. It\nwas a pair of glittering drop earrings embedded with diamonds that had been\ngrown in a lab.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It took just five days to grow the diamonds\nadorning Markle\u2019s ears according to Sidney Neuhaus, co-founder of Kima\u00ef, the\ncompany that made them. Based in Antwerp, the capital of the world\u2019s diamond\nbusiness, both she and her co-founder Jessica Warch grew up in diamond\nfamilies. Nauhaus\u2019s father owns a diamond jewellery shop, and her grandfather\nworked for De Beers, making his career in diamonds after World War Two.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite their illustrious family histories in the\ntrade, Neuhaus and Warch chose to break away from conventional diamonds because\nof the environmental and humanitarian toll of extracting them. Millennials and\nnow Generation Z \u2013 who together are the main purchasers of diamonds for\nengagement rings \u2013 are moving away from conventional diamonds, with nearly 70%\nof millennials considering buying a lab grown alternative.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So what are lab grown diamonds, and are they\nreally a more sustainable alternative to traditional mined diamonds?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First up, a lab-grown diamond is a diamond:\nchemically, physically and optically identical to a mined diamond. Naturally\noccurring diamonds are forged in the crushing pressure and immense heat of the\nEarth\u2019s mantle around 100 miles underground. Most were formed between 1bn and\n3bn years ago at a time when our planet was hotter than it is today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Lab-grown\ndiamonds are also created using extreme pressure and heat, but inside a machine\nrather than the bowels of the Earth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are\ntwo ways to grow a diamond. Both involve starting with the \u201cseed\u201d (a flat\nslither) of another diamond. The first lab diamond was made using a High\nPressure High Temperature (HPHT) system, where the seed is then placed amidst\nsome pure graphite carbon and exposed to temperatures of about 1,500C and\npressurised to approximately 1.5 million pounds per square inch in a chamber.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

More recently,\nanother way to grow a diamond was discovered, called Chemical Vapor Deposition\n(CVD). This involves putting the seed in a sealed chamber filled with\ncarbon-rich gas and heating to around 800C. Under these conditions the gases\nbegin to \u201cstick\u201d to the seed, growing a diamond carbon atom by atom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The\ntechnology behind lab diamonds has made crucial advances in recent years,\nallowing companies to grow higher quality diamonds more rapidly and more\ncheaply. It has meant growing competition between lab diamond and mined diamond\ncompanies. Today, it costs $300 to $500 per carat to produce a CVD lab-grown\ndiamond, compared with $4,000 per carat in 2008, according to a report\ncommissioned by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lab-grown\ndiamonds are a rapidly growing trend in the industry. Young diamond-buyers are\ndrawn to them by price, transparency and for environmental reasons, with this\nsegment of the market increasing by between 15% and 20% annually, according to\nthe AWDC report. The growth is expected to continue as more jewellers start to\nsell lab diamonds and more labs are launched.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Environmental\ncredentials<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But lab diamonds are not without fault. A distinct lack of transparency makes it difficult to source accurate data to compare the carbon footprints of mined and lab diamonds, but the energy needed to produce a lab diamond is significant. One report on the topic, commissioned by the Diamond Producers Association, suggests that the greenhouse gas emissions produced mining natural diamonds is three times less than those created when growing diamonds in a lab. It\u2019s worth noting that the DPA represents seven of the world\u2019s largest diamond miners, including De Beers, Alrosa and Rio Tinto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

However,\nsome lab diamond companies, including the Leonardo Dicaprio backed Diamond\nFoundry in the US, are certified as carbon neutral and use only renewable\nenergy. But others have been warned by the Federal Trade Commission in the US\nto be careful when presenting themselves as \u201ceco-friendly\u201d without evidence to substantiate\nthese claims.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Figures\npublished by Diamond Foundry suggest that the total environmental footprint of\nmined diamonds is much higher than lab diamonds. \u201cIt takes an entire factor\nmore energy to extract an underground diamond from Earth than it takes to\ncreate one above ground… On top of this, the energy used in mining is\ngenerally dirty diesel versus renewable energy in our above-the-ground\nproduction,\u201d says a blog post on their website.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An\nestimated 250 tonnes of earth is shifted for every single carat of diamond. For\ncontext, 148 million carats were mined in 2018. Indeed, some mines are now so\nhuge they can be seen from space. A 2014 report by consulting firm Frost &\nSullivan also showed that mined diamonds require twice as much energy per carat\nthan those grown in a lab. It estimated that 57kg of carbon are released into\nthe atmosphere for every single carat mined, but claimed lab grown diamonds\nrelease barely more than a few grams, but this assumes renewable energy is used\nand some in the industry have cast doubt on the reliability of the report.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The figure\nis far less than that estimated by another consultancy Trucost, which produced\nthe previously mentioned report for the Diamond Producers Association. They put\nthe carbon emissions from lab grown diamonds at 510kg CO2 per polished carat\nand those from mined diamonds at 160kg CO2 per polished carat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Researchers at Anglo American, the parent company of De Beers, have also been working on a project to reduce the carbon footprint of mined diamonds by capturing carbon dioxide inside a porous mined rock known as kimberlite. Led by the company\u2019s geologist Evelyn Mervine, they have been developing a process called \u201cmineral carbonation\u201d as a way of off-setting the greenhouse emissions that come from the mining process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But the\nenvironmental damage from diamond mining goes further than simply its carbon\nemissions. Diamond mining has been linked to pollution of water sources used by\nlocal people due to acid mine drainage. This occurs when minerals from the\nmined rocks seep into the water supply. The University of Waterloo in Canada\ndescribes it as \u201cone of the mining industries top environmental liabilities\u201d.\nAlthough acid mine drainage is not exclusively a problem for the diamond\nindustry \u2013 it occurs at many metal and coal mines too \u2013 researchers at the\nUniversity of Waterloo have been working with the Diavik diamond gem mine in\nCanada\u2019s Northwest Territories to reduce this pollution from waste rock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mining has\nalso caused the destruction of habitats in Canada and beyond. In 2016, The Wall\nStreet Journal reported that De Beers had killed over 18,000 fish draining a\nCanadian lake for diamond mining. In India, diamond mines have been blamed for\nplacing highly endangered tiger populations under further pressure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, while\nneither lab diamond nor mined diamond industries are perfect, the wider\nenvironmental price from the latter can be higher. Indeed, the former Tiffany\nchief executive Michael J. Kowalski wrote in a 2015 New York Times opinion\npiece, \u201cfew industries in the world have a larger environmental and social\nfootprint than mining\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Flawed\norigins<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Indeed, the\nenvironmental and humanitarian harms from diamond mining are closely\nintertwined. The operation of diamond mines relies on miners working for low\nwages in unsafe conditions. Even diamonds extracted in accordance with the\nKimberly Process, established in the early 2000s to reduce the trade in\nconflict diamonds, can have obscured origins. Alice Harle (a pseudonym to\nprotect her identity), leader of the conflict resources team at the\nnon-governmental organisation Global Witness, says that there are many holes in\nthe process. \u201cThe definition of a \u2018conflict diamond\u2019 as the Kimberly Process sees\nit is a diamond which is funding an armed group which is trying unseat a\nlegitimate government,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Over the years, the links between mined diamonds and human rights abuses have evolved far beyond that definition. \u201cThe Kimberly Process has failed to keep up,\u201d Harle says. She gives an example of a huge discovery of diamonds in Zimbabwe in the mid-2000s that led to the deaths of hundreds of civilian miners. The diamonds found here were traded in Antwerp and Dubai, \u201ccirculating freely on international markets\u201d, according to a Global Witness report.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Further\ndown the supply chain, things get murkier still, as once a stone is cut and\npolished it is no longer traced by the Kimberly Process. Diamonds pass through\nmultiple trading hubs on their journey from mine to shop, and often end up\nmixed with diamonds from other countries of export. The result is that even\namong diamonds with Kimberly Process certification, many companies cannot trace\nthe diamonds they use back to their country of origin. A 2018 report from Human\nRights Watch, which investigated major jewellers including Buglari, Pandora,\nCartier and Tiffany & Co, says, \u201cNone of the companies can identify all of\ntheir diamonds\u2019 individual mines of origin.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But there\nis also concern that the demand for lab diamonds could take away jobs from\nresource-rich developing countries. Brad Brooks-Rubin, previous special advisor\non conflict diamonds to the US Department of State and now managing director at\nThe Sentry\/Enough Project, an organisation that aims to end mass atrocities in\nAfrica\u2019s deadliest conflict zones, asks, \u201cis it ethical to guide people away\nfrom buying diamonds from developing countries, where a million people or more\nrely on the work?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Giving back<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The\nhumanitarian questions around lab and mined diamonds remain knotty, but there\nis one way that lab diamonds come out on top in terms of environmental impact.\nDiamonds for jewellery make up only 30% of the market, with the rest sold for\nuse in drilling, cutting and grinding. It\u2019s in this area that lab diamonds can\nactually be used for environmental benefit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of\ntheir industrial uses is disinfecting polluted water sources. This is done by\nadding the mineral boron during the diamond-growing process to create a\n\u201cboron-doped diamond\u201d, which is able to conduct electricity. By then applying\ncurrent to the diamond it oxidises otherwise toxic organic compounds in a\nprocess called mineralisation, which turns them into a biodegradable form.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jason\nPayne, chief executive of Ada Diamonds, a San Francisco-based lab diamond\ncompany argues that lab diamonds can also significantly reduce the carbon\nfootprints in communications and transport. The reason lab diamonds have the\nedge on mined diamonds here is down to their purity and hardness, with\nlab-grown diamonds found to be ten times harder than natural diamonds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cA diamond\nis the ultimate known semiconductor\u2026 far superior to silicon or other\nmaterials,\u201d says Payne. Using lab diamonds in transistors reduces the energy\nlost as heat as electricity is conducted from the power plant to devices such\nas your mobile phone as it charges. The US Department of Energy reports that\ndiamond-based components reduce these losses by up to 90%.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A thin\ncoating of diamond has also been shown to reduce friction in moving mechanical\nparts, from windmills to cars. Nissan reported a reduction in friction between\nengine parts of approximately 40% when using diamond film. In contrast with lab\ndiamonds, mined diamonds \u201cdo not have the purity required for many of these\napplications,\u201d argues Payne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The diamond\nillusion<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the\npast, when faced with existential threat, the mined diamond industry has\nadvertised its way out of trouble. Indeed, the reason many of us are so fond of\ndiamonds stems from a clever advertising campaign launched by De Beers in 1947.\nThe company forever changed culture when it convinced us that \u201ca diamond is\nforever\u201d, and that a diamond ring is a quintessential part of getting engaged. The\nidea that diamonds are rare and precious is also a carefully crafted marketing\nillusion. In fact, excessive supply of diamonds has recently pushed De Beers to\nreduce its number of accredited buyers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But as lab\ndiamonds grow in popularity, the usual rebranding effort doesn\u2019t appear to be\nworking for mined diamonds. The industry faces issues of oversupply and a slump\nin demand across the globe \u2013 particularly in China, the world\u2019s second largest\ndiamond market, where sales declined by 5% in 2019. At an industry meeting on\nthe rooftop of a fancy London hotel at the end of November, Simon Forrester,\nchief executive of the UK\u2019s National Association of Jewellers told an audience\nthat, \u201cas an industry we are suffering, [due to] lacking consumer confidence\u201d.\nThe diamond behemoth De Beers recently announced it cut production by 15% in\nlate 2019 due to weak prices.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As\nenvironmental sustainability and social welfare rise on consumers\u2019 agenda,\nNeuhaus says she has noticed a change in atmosphere in Antwerp. \u201cWhen I was\nyounger [Antwerp was] super dynamic. Business was flourishing for everyone. Now\nwhen I go back you can feel there is another mood\u2026 there is less money than\nbefore,\u201d she says. Neuhaus\u2019s story of splitting away from her traditional\nfamily business into the more high-tech world of lab-grown diamonds is symbolic\nof this change in the air. With clients like Meghan Markle on her books, her\nlab diamond business is thriving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When it\ncomes to jewellery, Neuhaus says that the real value in diamonds, mined or lab-grown,\nis not really about price or rarity. \u201cIt\u2019s more about the emotional value,\u201d she\nsays, fingering a long gold necklace with a green pendant on it hanging around\nher neck. \u201cThis was the first piece of jewellery I made for myself.\u201d For this\nreason, as long as diamonds hold their emotional resonance, jewellers will\ncontinue to sell them, both lab-grown and mined.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

—<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The\nemissions from travel it took to report this story were 0.7kg CO2, travelling\nby train, tube and bus. The digital emissions from this story are an estimated\n1.2g to 3.6g CO2 per page view.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Harriet Constable Young people are falling out of love with mined diamonds because of their high environmental and humanitarian costs. How do their alternative, lab-made diamonds, measure up? On a grey January morning in…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":451,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[11],"tags":[114],"class_list":["post-450","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","tag-lab-grown-diamond"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Sparkling Rise Of The Lab Grown Diamond - Towncryyers<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/towncryyers.com\/index.php\/2020\/02\/10\/the-sparkling-rise-of-the-lab-grown-diamond\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Sparkling Rise Of The Lab Grown Diamond - Towncryyers\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Harriet Constable Young people are falling out of love with mined diamonds because of their high environmental and humanitarian costs. 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